We arrived safe and not-so-sound at 3:15PM Jerusalem time, which is 8:15AM New York time. After an uneventful 45 minute bus ride, we arrived at Tantur and were welcomed, fed and questioned by many. Where are you from, why are you here, what do you plan on doing, what is your work (Note to Rich and Noel - I told them my job was to mess things up), what do you think about the conflict (they were not referring to an US sporting event), and finally - the question that might need further reflection - when do you leave? We were fortunate to dine with three wonderful Notre Dame students who filled us in on our "Jerusalem Hilton" (Tantur Institute) and how to best navigate this beautiful complex as well as how and where to visit the various sites. The only thing these wonderful young people did not agree on was if Notre Dame's football team would be 10-2 or 8-4. But they did seem to agree that it would probably take 2-3 years before they would be competing for a national championship.

After dinner we relaxed and turned in (fell asleep) at 9PM. Periodically during the night we were awakened by chanting and we were told in the morning that the Muslims were chanting morning prayer which they complete before sunrise. There must not be a set time because it happened at 3:30 and 4:30.

Sunday morning came and if we are to have breakfast, it is up and out by 7:30AM. After breakfast, we walked to the roof, where we could see Jerusalem layed out before us. Diane commented on the wall and how it appears to wrap from the left point on the horizon to the right point. The city is built on a hill and the construction of both the wall and the homes within the wall is primarily stone. It is a desert climate and there is limited vegitation, unless intentional. There are various checkpoints along the wall, where Palestinians must enter and leave after being cleared through the checkpoint.

These checkpoints literally allow men, women and children to either get to work, shop or school or not. They control the very lives of the folks wanting to enter and leave. I briefly wondered how the checkpoint of my heart compared with these checkpoints. Who do I screen out and who do I let in? Perhaps more on that later. After inquiring about Mass in Jerusalem we headed for the bus. We were picked up by a small bus and were given our first experience at the art of driving-honking-turning-stopping and starting. The speed was always the same - foot to the floor, followed by a sudden jarring caused by the brake being applied. As we were cut off at one point and saved by our drive who layed on the horn and who at the following light stopped the bus, put on the emergency brake and got out to have a discussion with the driver of the bus that almost hit us. I do not believe they were discussing where to have lunch. After about five minutes we are off again and arrived at the entrance to the Old City where another exchange takes place. This time between our driver and a man armed with a machine gun. Our driver was yelling at him. I thought to myself - hey, he has the gun!


Finally we arrived at Notre Dame Church - whoops Mass was at 9AM not 10:30AM. Well we will head for the next choice and into the Old City we walked and walked and walked and walked! We walked part of the Via Dolorosa - that is believed to be the path that Jesus took to Calvery. We went into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre - the place supposed to be the burial grave of Jesus. These sites offer an interesting look into the spirituality of the world. Kneeling, kissing the stones at a particualr site, beating the chest, chanting - all happening by various pilgrims at the same time. I was more caught up in the moms and dads as they came with their children and encouraged them to "do as I do" at the various sites. The words of sacred scriptuire resonated within me as I watched these folks and I wondered - How is it that just a few short miles from here people are killing each other, food is being blocked from starving children, and Muslims and Jews are creating a history of distrust.

As we left this Christian quarter of the Old City, we went into the Muslim quarter and struggled down the narrow streets as the early morning shoppers were out in force. (The other quarters - the Armenian and Jewish quarters will be attempted at a different time.) Shopkeepers were interested in making an early sale and we were interested in understanding this maize of very narrow streets with high stone buildings and a ceiling in most areas. The languages of the world buzzed around us and we were obviously targeted as easy marks! We survived, found a bus and returned for lunch and a gentle afternoon to restore our bodies.

Sunday afternoon we made our first trip through a check point. Tantur is located next to the check point for Bethlehem. We walked to the check point and then entered as if entering Great Meadow Prison. The visitors to Bethlehem pass through this check point and walk between the Jewish community and the Palestinian community of Bethlehem. We entered without incident and later left without incident (although I did set off the alarm a couple of times - much to the annoyance of all). We visited the Church of the Nativity and Shepherd's field and Church of the Mother of God also called the "Milk Grotto" where tradition has said that a drop of Mary's milk fell on this floor (Father Sullivan should love that). These were interesting and very busy with tourists. We left and realized that the significant part of the afternoon was passing through the check point. The realization that many Palestinians pass through this place twice a day - on their way to and from work, caused us to reflect on this aspect of their life. We are told that in the evening if they are late arriving at the gate (after sundown) they can be arrested. Some of the staff at Tantur live in Bethlehem and the rector is very conscious to assure these workers are out timely. As we walked back for our second dinner, we realized that this experience will challenge our thinking as we walk on these holy grounds for Christians, Jews and Muslims and at the same time realize how much we may take freedom for granted.

We arrived back for a wonderful dinner, a walk and then off to rest. The end of our first full day and it was good!

Peace and love to all.