Friday, July 30, 2010
We leave today for Tel Aviv and then board a plane tomorrow for home. The five weeks have been wonderful. We have experience this holy place today and in many cases 2000 or 3000 or more years ago through the eyes and studies of the archeologists. We have struggled with computer glitches here for a week and thus I have been remiss in sending updates. However, fear not, Diane and I have more than 3000 photos!! Best to get your excuses ready!
This week we have continue to visit the land where Jesus walked or the land that tradition says Jesus walked. I will never read the gospels the same way again. We visited the home of Elizabeth and Zachariah and read Luke's account of this Church tradition. We visited a cave that the church selected to memorialize where John the Baptist was hiding so he would not be part of the Holy Innocents.
We were not scheduled to visit the Dome of the Rock - where Islam belives that Mohammad took his night ride to heaven from. This is the third holiest place for the Islam faithful. However, Frank was not to be denied. I played the "academic card" and was able to talk to the Shiek, who appointed a lectorer and guide for us. I was able to get all 27 of us in. Incredible experience!
Today, our group had Mass on Golgatha. Since the archeologists now concede that the place of Jesus burial is highly likely, this makes this location highly likely. As I read John's Gospel, I could feel a presence of the Spirit that was strong and present. Yesterday, Israeli guards entered the Muslim quarter and expelled 9 Palestinian families. This was three blocks from where we were praying. We prayed again for God's peace in this place and throughout the world.
I have enjoyed this blog attempt. Sorry for the missing days, but as I said at the outset, we come home prepared to talk about the stones from 2000 years ago and the living stones today and believe me they both have stories to tell.
We will be home early Sunday afternoon!
Peace, blessings and love to all,
Frank
Sunday, July 25, 2010
We have visited Bethlehem - the city of bread - many times. To enter, we have gone thorough an Israeli Checkpoint. There are a few checkpoints throughout Israel as a person attempts to go from Israeli territory to the West Bank or Palestinian territory. The wall was started in 2002 after Isreael decided unilaterally that the bombings were the result of Palestinians and that they could not protect themselves without the aid of the wall. The wall is 28 feet high and from my point of view - resembles the wall at the prison in Comstock, New York - also known as Great Meadow Prison. Great Meadow is a maximum security prison. To enter, you go through screening and enter multiple gates that slam or are otherwise closed behind you. Many times the wall has divided where a person lives from where a person works. Therefore, the checkpoint must be traversed at least twice a day. We have been in line at these checkpoints and had to wait for the guards - at their leisure - to open the gates and check us through. The guards never speak to those passing - they simply not yes or no!
People have also been separated from their land - that is, they live on one side of the wall and their land is on the other side. What used to be a five minuted walk from their house to their orchard is now a 30-60 minute walk - plus the time at the check points. The Palestinian youths celebrate when they get a pass for the evening. It would be like people in the outer areas of Albany needing approval to go to the inner-city of Albany and you best be back on time.
Below are several pictures of Bethlehem - a poor Palestinian city - like 2000 years ago; an oppressed city - like 2000 years ago; where life is ruled by an outside authority - like 2000 years ago and where unemployment and poverty is the norm. Where is God for me in these photos?
St. Catherines, next to the Basilica of the Nativity, where the annual Christmas Mass is televised every year.
Bell tower of the Basilical of the nativity
The wall and the checkpoint
From Tantur towards Bethlehem - the wall is 28 feet high
Another view from Tantur - where we are staying. We are in Jerusalem - the otherside of the wall is the West Bank.
The closed shops due to the loss of pilgrims coming to Bethlehem. Notice the Church of the Nativity in the background.
We are stopped at the checkpoint - this one takes about 30 minutes
Downtown Bethlehem
Women shopping in Bethlehem - they cannot look into the camera. They are friendly - but sad!
Narrow street in Bethlehem
More shoppers
These men are discussing the writing on the wall - one of them is the shop owner and the wall is the outside part of his shop
This woman is looking for her daily food.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
This church honors Jesus teaching of the beatitudes and the church and property offer a different vision than a simple mountain where Jesus went off with his disciples. This was and is a wonderful place to pray and reflect and realize that as we stand in these holy places of Jesus human life we are asked to make beautiful the lives of all today.
Crossen and Reed in their book "Excavating Jesus," suggest that this is actually Capernaum and one of the ten most significant discoveries that tie the biblical story to the actual site. The discoveries regarding a first century synagague and a home that is very likely Perer's home create images in the minds of this troupe of pilgrims that will forever effect how we hear the Gospel.
This is identified as Jesus' boat. That is unlikely, however this is a boat from the first century that was discovered at the Sea of Galilee in 1986. These and other discoveries have helped the Gospels come alive again for me
Our time in Galilee is perhaps the high point for me so far. We have been able to swim in this wonderful water. We have walked on the hills and entered the Jordan. My images of these places when I hear again the stories proclaimed will now be different and more alive. God has blessed Diane and me with this opportunity and we will try to bring this special place home and alive in our hearts.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Sunday, July 11, 2010
The Dead Sea, Masada, and Qumran. This was a busy day and one that again I will be challenged to bring meaning to the crossroads of scripture, this place and the purpose in my life of the context and words and God presents them to me and us in a special way. Masada, as you may remember, is a Jerusalem outpost that was built as a summer castle for Herod in the late 1st Century BCE. When the Jewish uprising occurred in 66CE some Jewish rebels overpowered the Romans at Masada and took control of this castle. Later as the Romans were bringing things under control, several legions began to overpower the various outposts. Masada was the last outpost and when the 965 Jews realized that they were going to be overtaken, they agreed that it would be better to die than be captured by the Romans. So on the evening before the final siege, they commited suicide. This story was told by Josephus.
We visited Old Jerusalem on Wednesday with our focus on the Jewish Quarter. And that leads me to a correction. I previously spoke of the Wailing Wall or Western Wall as being the remains of the west corner of the second temple that was destroyed in 70CE after the Jewish upraising of 66CE. I was incorrect! The entire temple was destroyed. What survived was the temple mount - the platform that Herod had built to support the temple. When Herod arrived in Jerusalem to take over, he felt that the current temple was too small and so he expanded the platform on which the Temple sat - he did not build a new temple. The size of the temple mount was the length of five football fields. northern end of which the Dome of the Rock sits on. All Wednesday was spent examining the remains of the temple mount. There are steps that you will see in one of the photos and the temple mount wall where the money changers would have been sitting in the time of Jesus as they were selling the sacrifice offerings to Jews who were entering the temple to offer a sacrifice.
Wednesday had started with an early rising, a fast breakfast and then off to the archeological sites to beat the heat of the day. While we were there the temperature was 35C or 95F. We prayed scr
This area of the Old City is beautiful, prayerful and amazing. These are the actual steps that Jesus and his disciples would have climbed to enter the temple. These are the stairs that the man Jesus cured would have climbed.
Jesus said to him, "Rise, take up your mat, and walk." Immediately the man became well, took up his mat, and walked. Now that day was a sabbath. So the Jews said to the man who was cured, "It is the sabbath, and it is not lawful for you to carry your mat." He answered them, "The man who made me well told me, 'Take up your mat and walk.'" They asked him, "Who is the man who told you, 'Take it up and walk'?" The man who was healed did not know who it was, for Jesus had slipped away, since there was a crowd there. After this Jesus found him in the temple area and said to him, "Look, you are well; do not sin any more, so that nothing worse may happen to you." The man went and told the news that Jesus was the one who had made him well."
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Mount of Olives, the Talmud and Bethlehem
As we waited for the church to be open, we strolled the grounds. This is a view toward the east in the direction of Bethany. Jesus likely took this short walk from the home of Martha, Mary and Lazarus to Jerusalalem on a regualr baisis. Today Jesus would have a challenge. Bethany is Palistinian and therefore it is surrounded by a 28ft wall, visible towards the bottom of this photo.
To the left: Sign outside the Church of All Nations
Above: Rock used to commemorate the Agony in the Garden.
To the left is a view of the Church of All Nations from the entrance.
We spent some time at this location and read from scripture: Then going out he went, as was his custom, to the Mount of Olives, and the disciples followed him. When he arrived at the place he said to them, "Pray that you may not undergo the test." After withdrawing about a stone's throw from them and kneeling, he prayed, saying, "Father, if you are willing, take this cup away from me; still, not my will but yours be done." (And to strengthen him an angel from heaven appeared to him. He was in such agony and he prayed so fervently that his sweat became like drops of blood falling on the ground.) When he rose from prayer and returned to his disciples, he found them sleeping from grief. He said to them, "Why are you sleeping? Get up and pray that you may not undergo the test." While he was still speaking, a crowd approached and in front was one of the Twelve, a man named Judas. He went up to Jesus to kiss him. Jesus said to him, "Judas, are you betraying the Son of Man with a kiss?" His disciples realized what was about to happen, and they asked, "Lord, shall we strike with a sword?" And one of them struck the high priest's servant and cut off his right ear. But Jesus said in reply, "Stop, no more of this!" Then he touched the servant's ear and healed him. And Jesus said to the chief priests and temple guards and elders who had come for him, "Have you come out as against a robber, with swords and clubs? Day after day I was with you in the temple area, and you did not seize me; but this is your hour, the time for the power of darkness."
We then proceeded down the Mount of Olives and entered the Old City through Lion's Gate that splits the Jewish Quarter and the Muslim Quarter. Working our way up the Via Dolorosa we entered the Holy Sepulchre and visited the tomb. A few of us are planning on spending a night here. If we arrive by 8PM we can be locked in the Church and the doors are opened just before midnight for liturgical services. This was a long hot day and getting back to Tantur was wonderul - evening prayer, dinner and a cool walk in the evening breeze finished a very spiritual day.
Tuesday, July 6. We met Debbie Weissman. Her PhD is from Hebrew University on the social history of Jewish women's education. She was and is a delight. We will have her again on Thursday.She is a founding member of Kehiliat Yedidya, an Orthodox synagogue where we will attend Shavat services on Friday. Her lecture was basic and yet challenging. Although her subject was "Between Bible and Talmud," she helped us discover issues from the origin of the Tanak to her views as a Jewish Feminist.
We relaxed Tuesday afternoon and went back to Bethlehem Tuesday evening. The Church of the Nativity was quiet and we had some prayerful time at the crib as well as at the Altar of the Holy Innocents. Although I was scolded by the guard for crossing my leg and thus showing my heel, I was able to correct my posture and have peacefilled time at the Altar of the Holy Innocents. It was quiet and I lost muself in prayer that was interupted by the sister responsible for extinguishing the candles entrance.
As we walked back through the checkpoint, we followed a Palestinian woman who was struggling to enter as she set off the alarm because of the buttons on her coat. The interesting thing was that I also set off the alarm and after trying many solutions, discovered it was my belt that never set off the alarm at the airport or at any state prison. It must be very sensitive. We left this woman as she was objectging to removing her outer garmet for the male guard. Please pray for peace in this part of God's kingdom. We have no idea of how difficult their day to day life is in the midst of a constant fear.
Peace and blessings,
Monday, July 5, 2010
This is one of four possible Emmaus sites and today it is our site of choice. The mass will be in Franch and Latin and we have been promised to opportunity to participate in exceptional liturgy. As it turns out we are not disappointed. A few scenes from our journey.
The entrance to the Crusader Church, parts of which date to the twelth century, is through this heavy wooden door that we needed to ring a bell to be allowed entrance.
Not long after we arrived, this woman appeared and started lighting the candles from the center out - first the left side for one candle and then the right side for other candle and then back to the left side. Her movement was intentional and yet graceful and modeled for us the culture of this place of worship.
This is the worship space at the Crusader Church. The altar at the back of the photo under a window that allows the morning light to draw us into prayer and the ambl in the front center where the person proclaiming God's Word will face us.
The readings are checked by the person that will be proclaiming the first and second readings of the day. He will proclaim without the need of equipment and again his preparation is exceptional. He processed just behind the thurifer. The sisters entered just before singing, bowing reverently and taking their place.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Good morning, There were a few problems uploading the photos - sorry for the delay.
Saturday morning we are off to Bethlehem. This is our second visit and we will focus on Shepherd's Field and the Lutheran Center. This center focuses on bringing culture and the arts to this depressed region in the world - with emphasis on serving the young.
Shepherd's Field is the responsibility of the Franciscans and the site is beautiful, prayerful and offers us a gentle breeze. Excavations have revealed that this is indeed a place where shepherds lived during the time of Jesus. Shepherds were at the bottom of the class ladder, they were poor and not much liked. They slept with their flocks in caves that were in the field and it was to these that our faith tradition says the angels came and announced the most amazing news ever heard in the world - "Today a Savior is born and you will find him laying in a manger..." A few photos from Shepherd's field.
We stopped at the Church of the Nativity, but the heat of the day and the lines told us to visit the place where Christians say Jesus was born on another day. Actually Diane and I have been here once already. We head back to Tantur for lunch and an afternoon of study.
Peace and blessings
Friday, July 2, 2010
There are 27 in our group from all parts of the world. Although Latin Rite Catholics make up the greatest number,;with the Anglicans, Lutherans, Evangelicals and Orthodox added it creates a ecumenical faith filled group. On this day we were treated to an overview of the area in and near Jerusalem from vistas a few miles away and from vantage points with an elevation of several hundred feet. Jerusalem is built on a hill (let us go up to the house of the Lord) and there are also a couple of hills that are higher than the Holy City and the valleys (Kindron and Hebron) that lie between these hills tell some marvelous stories.
To the left I see West Jerusalem, green with trees and parks, whose towering cranes indicate the development of another luxury hotel or shopping mall. To the right I see a parched and dusty East Jerusalem, the Arab part of the city that is now dotted with Jewish developments. Glimpses of the wall (28 feet tall) slice through Arab neighborhoods. This better than any other picture describes the conflict.
This is perhaps the most divided city in the world. Jews and Muslims - Israelis and Palestinians claim it as their capital and historic right. This city where Abraham's three religions all meet with such a great opportunity to be an international city and yet stands for all of us the story of the worst results when faith and politics clash. This vision continues to enter my prayer as I am engulfed with my childhood visions of faith - the birth of Jesus, the life of Jesus and the resurrection of Jesus. My recollection of these childhood memories are are surprisingly accurate with the stories in this Holy Land.
We drove to the city and got a closer look at the excavation along the Eastern Wall where the western wall of the Old Temple has been excavated. Vistas of favorite bible and tradition stories everywhere we looked - The Church of Mary Magdalene, the Mount of Olives, the Church of the Agony, Peter in Gallicantu (where Peter denies Jesus), the jail, the scourging, and in a distance - Holy Sepulchre. We will see all of these close up. Our international troupe next headed for Peter in Gallicantu. We arrived and walked by the church and into the area of the caves or jails in the time of Jesus. Although there is controversy about the exact location of the jail and if this is the real one; there is general agreement that this is what a jail in the time of Jesus would have looked like and after being lowered into the jail, Jesus would have been spit on and abused by the people who passed this underground hole of torture.
LORD, my God, I call out by day; at night I cry aloud in your presence. Let my prayer come before you; incline your ear to my cry. For my soul is filled with troubles; my life draws near to Sheol. I am reckoned with those who go down to the pit; I am weak, without strength. My couch is among the dead, with the slain who lie in the grave. You remember them no more; they are cut off from your care. You plunged me into the bottom of the pit, into the darkness of the abyss. Your wrath lies heavy upon me; all your waves crash over me. Because of you my friends shun me; you make me loathsome to them; Caged in, I cannot escape; my eyes grow dim from trouble. All day I call on you, LORD; I stretch out my hands to you. Do you work wonders for the dead? Do the shades arise and praise you? Is your love proclaimed in the grave, your fidelity in the tomb? Are your marvels declared in the darkness, your righteous deeds in the land of oblivion? But I cry out to you, LORD; in the morning my prayer comes before you. Why do you reject me, LORD? Why hide your face from me? I am mortally afflicted since youth; lifeless, I suffer your terrible blows. Your wrath has swept over me; your terrors have reduced me to silence. All the day they surge round like a flood; from every side they close in on me. Because of you companions shun me; my only friend is darkness.
As I finished the reading a chill went through me that was unrealted to the temperature of the cave. I and the others sat in silence. At that moment I felt God's incredible love and my prayer at this moment is searching for why God has caused me to be in this place.
Peace and blessings.