Good Morning,

We leave today for Tel Aviv and then board a plane tomorrow for home. The five weeks have been wonderful. We have experience this holy place today and in many cases 2000 or 3000 or more years ago through the eyes and studies of the archeologists. We have struggled with computer glitches here for a week and thus I have been remiss in sending updates. However, fear not, Diane and I have more than 3000 photos!! Best to get your excuses ready!

This week we have continue to visit the land where Jesus walked or the land that tradition says Jesus walked. I will never read the gospels the same way again. We visited the home of Elizabeth and Zachariah and read Luke's account of this Church tradition. We visited a cave that the church selected to memorialize where John the Baptist was hiding so he would not be part of the Holy Innocents.

We were not scheduled to visit the Dome of the Rock - where Islam belives that Mohammad took his night ride to heaven from. This is the third holiest place for the Islam faithful. However, Frank was not to be denied. I played the "academic card" and was able to talk to the Shiek, who appointed a lectorer and guide for us. I was able to get all 27 of us in. Incredible experience!

Today, our group had Mass on Golgatha. Since the archeologists now concede that the place of Jesus burial is highly likely, this makes this location highly likely. As I read John's Gospel, I could feel a presence of the Spirit that was strong and present. Yesterday, Israeli guards entered the Muslim quarter and expelled 9 Palestinian families. This was three blocks from where we were praying. We prayed again for God's peace in this place and throughout the world.

I have enjoyed this blog attempt. Sorry for the missing days, but as I said at the outset, we come home prepared to talk about the stones from 2000 years ago and the living stones today and believe me they both have stories to tell.

We will be home early Sunday afternoon!

Peace, blessings and love to all,
Frank

Reflections on Bethlehem,

We have visited Bethlehem - the city of bread - many times. To enter, we have gone thorough an Israeli Checkpoint. There are a few checkpoints throughout Israel as a person attempts to go from Israeli territory to the West Bank or Palestinian territory. The wall was started in 2002 after Isreael decided unilaterally that the bombings were the result of Palestinians and that they could not protect themselves without the aid of the wall. The wall is 28 feet high and from my point of view - resembles the wall at the prison in Comstock, New York - also known as Great Meadow Prison. Great Meadow is a maximum security prison. To enter, you go through screening and enter multiple gates that slam or are otherwise closed behind you. Many times the wall has divided where a person lives from where a person works. Therefore, the checkpoint must be traversed at least twice a day. We have been in line at these checkpoints and had to wait for the guards - at their leisure - to open the gates and check us through. The guards never speak to those passing - they simply not yes or no!

People have also been separated from their land - that is, they live on one side of the wall and their land is on the other side. What used to be a five minuted walk from their house to their orchard is now a 30-60 minute walk - plus the time at the check points. The Palestinian youths celebrate when they get a pass for the evening. It would be like people in the outer areas of Albany needing approval to go to the inner-city of Albany and you best be back on time.

Below are several pictures of Bethlehem - a poor Palestinian city - like 2000 years ago; an oppressed city - like 2000 years ago; where life is ruled by an outside authority - like 2000 years ago and where unemployment and poverty is the norm. Where is God for me in these photos?





St. Catherines, next to the Basilica of the Nativity, where the annual Christmas Mass is televised every year.









Bell tower of the Basilical of the nativity













The wall and the checkpoint













From Tantur towards Bethlehem - the wall is 28 feet high













Another view from Tantur - where we are staying. We are in Jerusalem - the otherside of the wall is the West Bank.











The closed shops due to the loss of pilgrims coming to Bethlehem. Notice the Church of the Nativity in the background.











We are stopped at the checkpoint - this one takes about 30 minutes












Downtown Bethlehem













Women shopping in Bethlehem - they cannot look into the camera. They are friendly - but sad!













Narrow street in Bethlehem













More shoppers













These men are discussing the writing on the wall - one of them is the shop owner and the wall is the outside part of his shop












This woman is looking for her daily food.

Peace and Blessings,

Frank

Galilee continued - July 14-15-16 reflections

Our time in Galilee, although wonderful and prayerful, was very busy. We rose early each day in our place by the Sea of Galilee. The kosher breakfast was nourishing and fast. Morning prayer was often the same! Off to the first site where this man named Jesus was calling.

This picture was from the boat and back towards the Mount of Beatitudes. The sunrise was spectacular - the water was cool and refreshing after a hot day on our pilgrim journey

This church honors Jesus teaching of the beatitudes and the church and property offer a different vision than a simple mountain where Jesus went off with his disciples. This was and is a wonderful place to pray and reflect and realize that as we stand in these holy places of Jesus human life we are asked to make beautiful the lives of all today.

Crossen and Reed in their book "Excavating Jesus," suggest that this is actually Capernaum and one of the ten most significant discoveries that tie the biblical story to the actual site. The discoveries regarding a first century synagague and a home that is very likely Perer's home create images in the minds of this troupe of pilgrims that will forever effect how we hear the Gospel.

This is Peter's house - first century habits and some signs attributed to the Herodian and 2nd temple period have been positively identified. This is a close moment and we found a great place to read the gospel story about the healing of Peter's mother-in-law.

This is identified as Jesus' boat. That is unlikely, however this is a boat from the first century that was discovered at the Sea of Galilee in 1986. These and other discoveries have helped the Gospels come alive again for me

Our time in Galilee is perhaps the high point for me so far. We have been able to swim in this wonderful water. We have walked on the hills and entered the Jordan. My images of these places when I hear again the stories proclaimed will now be different and more alive. God has blessed Diane and me with this opportunity and we will try to bring this special place home and alive in our hearts.

We will also bring home the life of opression and pain as the Jews and Arabs continue to find hate easier than love. The story is long and complicated, but the pain being inflicted on the vulnerable is having an effect that will last a lifetime and I believe that God is asking me to bring these images home also. We pray daily for a resolution to this struggle as we hear the stories from so many wonderful people.

Peace and blessings,

Frank

Greetings from Galilee

Reflections for Monday and Tuesday, July 12-13

We continued our archeological studies as we drove North to Galilee. There seem to be some interesting connection between anthropology and archeology as we discover the living among the dead. However, I am feeling challenged with the archeological focus and how that affirms at times, but most often questions our knowledge of history, both biblical and historical.

We started this trek north by visiting the ruins at Caesarea Maritima, a Roman City, with some exceptional archeological discoveries that helped determine dating and style of community for many other locations, including Capernaum and Jerusalem. These structures combine the Helenistic and Roman traditions. The city dates from the Herodian (end of the first century BCE to 70CE) and is the most ancient capital on display in this part of God's creation. This might have been part of one of the luxurious buildings constructed by King Herod. Well enough of this archeological mumbo-jumbo. How does this place play into the importance of the historical Jesus and the biblical Jesus? One way was the discovery of an inscription at Caesarea Maritima of an inscription of Pontius Pilate and his responsibility in Jerusalem. These critical links to unpacking the questions in the Jesus journey and affirming or dispelling Jesus activity at a particualr place can create some mind jams.

The inscription

The translation

Well I am being called to attend the next lecture. more later

Peace and blessings

Frank

Reflections on Friday and Saturday, July 9-10.

The Dead Sea, Masada, and Qumran. This was a busy day and one that again I will be challenged to bring meaning to the crossroads of scripture, this place and the purpose in my life of the context and words and God presents them to me and us in a special way. Masada, as you may remember, is a Jerusalem outpost that was built as a summer castle for Herod in the late 1st Century BCE. When the Jewish uprising occurred in 66CE some Jewish rebels overpowered the Romans at Masada and took control of this castle. Later as the Romans were bringing things under control, several legions began to overpower the various outposts. Masada was the last outpost and when the 965 Jews realized that they were going to be overtaken, they agreed that it would be better to die than be captured by the Romans. So on the evening before the final siege, they commited suicide. This story was told by Josephus.

This building that is over 2000 years old is in remarkable condition and reveals to the archeologists the context of both Herod as well as the Jewish community that took over this place until their death

A death that is known because of the actual lots that were found and the process confirmed in the writings of Josephus

This picture is restricted and cannot be viewed by the people at the center lunch table!!

Yes we went swimming in the Dead Sea. Quite an experience and not very refreshing since the water temperature was close to 90F.

Our final stop was Qumran. These are photos of the caves where the manuscripts were found. It was late in the afternoon and the sun and salt water has drained much of the energy. However, this discovery in 1947and the ongoing analysis today continues to be of great historical and biblical importance.

Our classes have focused on the landscape and the unique history this part of the world has played and continues to play in its importance in world trade and world politics. Our instructor has been Paul Wright, President of Jerusalem University. Paul led us on this journey through archeological discoveries and religous text - primarily the bible.

God is amazing and through this unique journey, Diane and I and the others in our troupe are discovering how the stones of the past continue to affect the living stones of today.

Tomorrow we leave for 5 days in Galilee. Who is Jesus for me continues to be unpacked as I focus on this critical question.

Peace and blessings.

Reflections from Wednesday and Thursday - July 7-8

We visited Old Jerusalem on Wednesday with our focus on the Jewish Quarter. And that leads me to a correction. I previously spoke of the Wailing Wall or Western Wall as being the remains of the west corner of the second temple that was destroyed in 70CE after the Jewish upraising of 66CE. I was incorrect! The entire temple was destroyed. What survived was the temple mount - the platform that Herod had built to support the temple. When Herod arrived in Jerusalem to take over, he felt that the current temple was too small and so he expanded the platform on which the Temple sat - he did not build a new temple. The size of the temple mount was the length of five football fields. northern end of which the Dome of the Rock sits on. All Wednesday was spent examining the remains of the temple mount. There are steps that you will see in one of the photos and the temple mount wall where the money changers would have been sitting in the time of Jesus as they were selling the sacrifice offerings to Jews who were entering the temple to offer a sacrifice.

Wednesday had started with an early rising, a fast breakfast and then off to the archeological sites to beat the heat of the day. While we were there the temperature was 35C or 95F. We prayed scripture passages throughout as we visited these historical and religous areas.

This area of the Old City is beautiful, prayerful and amazing. These are the actual steps that Jesus and his disciples would have climbed to enter the temple. These are the stairs that the man Jesus cured would have climbed.

Jesus said to him, "Rise, take up your mat, and walk." Immediately the man became well, took up his mat, and walked. Now that day was a sabbath. So the Jews said to the man who was cured, "It is the sabbath, and it is not lawful for you to carry your mat." He answered them, "The man who made me well told me, 'Take up your mat and walk.'" They asked him, "Who is the man who told you, 'Take it up and walk'?" The man who was healed did not know who it was, for Jesus had slipped away, since there was a crowd there. After this Jesus found him in the temple area and said to him, "Look, you are well; do not sin any more, so that nothing worse may happen to you." The man went and told the news that Jesus was the one who had made him well."

This corner shows the ongoing work. It was peaceful here on Wednesday and God allowed me the time to be carried into these scriptures passages and reflect on what is going on in me as I stand before these scriptures (both words and context) today.

The Gospel Evangelists who did their writing 50-70 years after the death of Jesus used the surrounding area (like the destruction of the temple) to develop the metaphors that would help their audiences understand and get to know this person called Jesus.

"Jesus said to him, "Do you see these great buildings? There will not be one stone left upon another that will not be thrown down."

Alan is a gifted guide and lecturer and has helped develop in us the use of all our senses as we journey this part of God's kingdom.

At the end of this day I reflected again on what is important in my life - Is it the temples or is it the living stones that I encounter every day?

Peace and blessings

Mount of Olives, the Talmud and Bethlehem

Reflections for Monday and Tuesday, July 5 and 6.

We left early for a long day that would take us from the Mount of Olives to the tomb of Jesus at Holy Sepulchre. The tempurature was between 92 and 96F. This was the second or third time through some of these sites. We had a Lutheran Scholar, Father Timothy Lowe, PhD, to guide this troupe of pilgrims. I was challenged at the sites and the journey from site to site with how close to each other these sites are and how the journey would stir my spiritual core. Blending the context of the site 2000 years ago, as the archeologists have unpacked for us, along with the words of scripture - which are read as we move from holy site to holy site-and meld them into my soul as I stand here today in this holy place where families of various religous faiths struggle to accept one another will take me on a unique spiritual roller-coaster. As we arrive, we step into the Chapel of the Head of John the Baptist. The walls are covered with icons and since we are the only ones present, the opportunity for scripture and prayer is wonderful.

These three icons, Jesus, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist will generally appear together in Russian Icons. Father Timothy has studied iconography extensively and it is a blessing to have him with us today. The chapel experience was a great way to start a long day. The breeze and vistas from this location are exceptions.

As we waited for the church to be open, we strolled the grounds. This is a view toward the east in the direction of Bethany. Jesus likely took this short walk from the home of Martha, Mary and Lazarus to Jerusalalem on a regualr baisis. Today Jesus would have a challenge. Bethany is Palistinian and therefore it is surrounded by a 28ft wall, visible towards the bottom of this photo.

Another picture of the wall that prevents a person from retracing these steps of Jesus and further prevents the folks living here from working in Jerusalem without taking a rather long journey.

The Russian Ascension Church's Icons offered us an opportunity for mid-morning prayer. The deacons's door is the far door with the angel (appropriate!). Here the ascension passage from Luke is read and we have time for silent prayer. These opportunities have helped my personal journey move from tour to retreat.

We left and started down the Mount of Olives, stopping at the Peter Noster Church. The "Our Father" is in many languages on the wall. This is another location for quiet prayer in the beautiful courtyard. Two other groups are present and we can hear them praying in their languages (Spanish and French). Then we continued down the Mount of Olives and came to the Church of All Nations with the Sanctuary of Gethsemane. This place where Jesus prayed before his arrest is surrounded by ancient Olive Trees. It is busy, but once in the Church, it is very quiet.

To the left: Sign outside the Church of All Nations

Above: Rock used to commemorate the Agony in the Garden.

To the left is a view of the Church of All Nations from the entrance.

We spent some time at this location and read from scripture: Then going out he went, as was his custom, to the Mount of Olives, and the disciples followed him. When he arrived at the place he said to them, "Pray that you may not undergo the test." After withdrawing about a stone's throw from them and kneeling, he prayed, saying, "Father, if you are willing, take this cup away from me; still, not my will but yours be done." (And to strengthen him an angel from heaven appeared to him. He was in such agony and he prayed so fervently that his sweat became like drops of blood falling on the ground.) When he rose from prayer and returned to his disciples, he found them sleeping from grief. He said to them, "Why are you sleeping? Get up and pray that you may not undergo the test." While he was still speaking, a crowd approached and in front was one of the Twelve, a man named Judas. He went up to Jesus to kiss him. Jesus said to him, "Judas, are you betraying the Son of Man with a kiss?" His disciples realized what was about to happen, and they asked, "Lord, shall we strike with a sword?" And one of them struck the high priest's servant and cut off his right ear. But Jesus said in reply, "Stop, no more of this!" Then he touched the servant's ear and healed him. And Jesus said to the chief priests and temple guards and elders who had come for him, "Have you come out as against a robber, with swords and clubs? Day after day I was with you in the temple area, and you did not seize me; but this is your hour, the time for the power of darkness."

We then proceeded down the Mount of Olives and entered the Old City through Lion's Gate that splits the Jewish Quarter and the Muslim Quarter. Working our way up the Via Dolorosa we entered the Holy Sepulchre and visited the tomb. A few of us are planning on spending a night here. If we arrive by 8PM we can be locked in the Church and the doors are opened just before midnight for liturgical services. This was a long hot day and getting back to Tantur was wonderul - evening prayer, dinner and a cool walk in the evening breeze finished a very spiritual day.

Tuesday, July 6. We met Debbie Weissman. Her PhD is from Hebrew University on the social history of Jewish women's education. She was and is a delight. We will have her again on Thursday.She is a founding member of Kehiliat Yedidya, an Orthodox synagogue where we will attend Shavat services on Friday. Her lecture was basic and yet challenging. Although her subject was "Between Bible and Talmud," she helped us discover issues from the origin of the Tanak to her views as a Jewish Feminist.

We relaxed Tuesday afternoon and went back to Bethlehem Tuesday evening. The Church of the Nativity was quiet and we had some prayerful time at the crib as well as at the Altar of the Holy Innocents. Although I was scolded by the guard for crossing my leg and thus showing my heel, I was able to correct my posture and have peacefilled time at the Altar of the Holy Innocents. It was quiet and I lost muself in prayer that was interupted by the sister responsible for extinguishing the candles entrance.

As we walked back through the checkpoint, we followed a Palestinian woman who was struggling to enter as she set off the alarm because of the buttons on her coat. The interesting thing was that I also set off the alarm and after trying many solutions, discovered it was my belt that never set off the alarm at the airport or at any state prison. It must be very sensitive. We left this woman as she was objectging to removing her outer garmet for the male guard. Please pray for peace in this part of God's kingdom. We have no idea of how difficult their day to day life is in the midst of a constant fear.

Peace and blessings,